Trousseau, which is usually the last red to be picked, was showing a potential of 13-14% alcohol at the start of September, before the Poulsard was ripe. In 2014, the scourge of the Japanese vinegar fly drosophila suzukii wrecked the Poulsard vintage so badly that compromises had to be made selection wasnt enough, they had to pick early, ripe or not, or lose the crop and few risked no sulphur additions. I was also interviewed by Kevin Ecock of Wine Ireland for his podcast and reveal how I came to first explore the Jura and eventually write the book. Isle of Jura Distillery Turas Mara Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Isle of Jura, Scotland. Photos above and below by Jrme Gene. I had only a little opportunity to taste as I was delivering seminars first, then selling books, but I managed to go through almost all the Chardonnays in the room in Chicago, then chose to focus on Trousseau in New York. Whilst Savoie doesnt have the same level of notoriety or desirability as the Jura, it has all the right elements to become so: fine terroir, regional specialties, a great variety of native grapes and a handful of high-quality producers. Although Jacques wines were not the only ones to be in the US in the late 1990s, his wines, especially the reds, really did much to spark the interest in Jura wines in the US. Some background first. In 2014 he also worked without any SO2 as an experiment. Domaine Berthet-Bondet Ctes du Jura. Pascal was one of the early creators of the Le Nez dans le Vert group of organic vignerons and had recently taken on the task of being co-president. Pascal was the one in charge of the vineyards. Une publication partage par CIVJ (@vins_du_jura) le 17 Janv. The Jura wine region is one of Frances smallest, accounting for just 0.2% of the countrys total production. We had the incredibly reasonably-priced and quite delicious and well-presented three-course menu of the day the la carte menu looked enticing too. Domaine de la Borde Arbois. However, in lockdown, he decided also to make a series of maps and diagrams of vineyard areas he loved, each one in an entirely different style. There was huge relief that there was a good quantity of healthy grapes across all the varieties in fact they were worried the yields were almost too high. You have just a few more days to buy the wine samples and taste along, but in any case do watch along live so that you can ask questions next Friday 3 July,the session will also be available as a video recording later. Distant cousins with hillside vineyards, Burgundy and Jura have points in common: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and clay-limestone soils to name the essentials, but here the resemblance ceases. Domaine du Plican began with the 2012 vintage from just 5ha of biodynamic vineyards, which they had taken over from Chteau de Chavanes in Montigny-les-Arsures. The Jura also produces red wine. The Jura wine world has certainly not stood still in any way since I last wrote on this blog. . Excellent and varied tasting events Some Jura wines can be recognized by their golden sparkles. Tenuta San Guido . Jrme Gene/Jura Tourisme Jacques told me how Neal had arrived one morning in the middle of harvest in 1996 and how he told him that he was too busy looking after the press to give Neal a tasting. I hope to resist the second bottle for a while as it will certainly age well. Changes: the old guard moves on and newcomers keep coming The main photos that feature in this post, kindly provided by Mick Rock of Cephas, chief photographer for the book, were taken exactly eight years ago in the early summer of 2013, one that was slow to kick in, not so dissimilar to 2021. I loved the Plein Sud Trousseau 2015 too, although the Pinot Cuve Julien was too volatile for my taste. In 2014 she self-published her first book Jura Wine which is the definitive guide in English to the wines of the region. Exports have leapt from 7% to 10% and thats with a series of small vintages too, and the buzz has grown and grown. My earliest memories of meeting Pascal was as part of the press group for the Perce du Vin Jaune almost 20 years ago. Its only available direct from Serge Reverchon or in the local Jura bookshops. With the creation in 2012 of the most significant new estate in Arbois for some years, it seems apt that its name and label feature a pelican. The Piercing of the Vin Jaune (External link), Une publication partage par Jura Tourisme (@juratourisme) le 26 Aot 2015 1:27 PDT. The book also includes a series of larger scale maps showing the location of vignerons profiled. And look out for at least one more blog post here in the next couple of weeks featuring an amazing and original map. An amazing line-up for an extraordinary tasting dinner in Sydney with Greg Murphy and Shannon Noble Brett Jones. He was one of the first vignerons to bottle his own wine from the vineyards he built up in and around his village of Montigny-les-Arsures. It is an extraordinary wine, exceptionally dry and fresh, with a unique, slightly oxidized character. Sat 7 Jun 2014 07.59 EDT. Before long he was convinced that he wanted to make wine there. The producer will not stir the wine during the barrel ageing, but it is vital to control it and do regular tastings. Also influenced by Pierre, Domaine de la Tournelle was one of the earliest to make a Savagnin Ouill from 1994, named Fleur de Savagnin. Finally, the colorful and robust Pinot Noir often goes well with the first two, bringing an aroma of red berries with a spicy note. Domaine Buronfosse Ctes du Jura. I returned to Europe in May and since then have made a few brief trips in the Jura, attended tastings in Paris and London and, once harvest was underway, discovered generally an upbeat mood in the region. Jrme Gene/Jura Tourisme Before I left Saint-Laurent, I went to see Jacques, who I had last seen some years ago. Distant cousins with hillside vineyards, Burgundy and Jura have points in common: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and clay-limestone soils to name the essentials, but here the resemblance ceases. James Lawther MW explores Juras bucolic charms and its characterful wines An hours drive east of Beaune across the unbroken Bresse plain lie the vineyards of the Jura. For Overnoy to have been overtaken this time by the Domaine des Miroirs - a 2015 I Need the Sun cuve which sold for 1,903 - is a first! In the masterclass we will talk more about these vineyard sites and working biodynamically in the Jura. My thanks to Pedro for allowing me to reproduce the map above you can also access a larger resolution version on this link. Maxime Coquard/Jura Tourisme Isle of Jura Distillery Diurach's Own 16 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Isle of Jura, Scotland. He was an emotional, dedicated man, who for this English woman, took time to get to know. Whilst the regions vins jaunes dont occupy the top places in our ranking this time, the Juras viticultural pride and joy still takes nine of the 20 places in the ranking, the biggest share of any wine category. Postscript: This is a post about recent events in Arbois, especially. This region has long been ahead of the curve when it comes to organic and biodynamic wine thanks to the pioneering work of emblematic vintners like Overnoy, Ganevat, and Tissot. The 2023 iDealwine auction barometer is released! The best value wines from Jura based on average price and critic scores. But its the unique native grapes of the area that I find most intriguing. Profound and textured, with bready, savoury, nutty layers and a bone-dry finish. See all the wines from the Jura currently available. The cellars of the city open their doors to winegrowers from all over the Jura to taste their wines in a can't-miss festival. This may be the same as what is known as Savagnin Muscat down in southern Jura as produced by Domaine des Marnes Blanches. If anyone wishes to help me on this, contact me privately. First the bad news. Adeline Chatelain and her son Marin Fumey outside the tasting room in Saint-Laurent Wink Lorch. The main Jura map provides an indication, rather than an exact rendition, of vineyard areas and appellation boundaries, in relation to local towns, rivers and importantly altitude. To produce Jura wine - especially the signature Vin Jaune and Vin de Pailles - would have been like having a private gold mine in your cellar.Today I am in the tiny yet ambitious appellation of Pupillin, where young, onyx-haired Damien Petit, of his family's Desire Petite Vineyards . Many producers are small family businesses that practice organic and/or biodynamic viticulture, aware of the importance of looking after the land as well as making wines that speak of the region. A finished 2015 of Domaine Pigniers Cuve Landre was tasting as lovely as ever and I made the discovery of Domaine Buronfosse SE KWA SA (explanation said out loud the name is cest quoi a means what IS that?) a 2015 blend of classic and old Jura varieties, which I decided to grab for drinking over the next couple of years, if it lasts that long in my cellar. It is believed that Thierry Moyne has sold La Balance; Jean-Paul Jeunet is likely to be retiring, apart from for special events, and handing over to his second who he has been working with for many years; Bistrot les Claquets is rumoured to be up for sale. The area is known for its meat and dairy produce (cheeses such as comt and morbier, and poulet de Bresse and morteau sausages) but, until recently, its wines were a hidden secret. I know that all who have enjoyed their wines over the years, or indeed met these two extraordinary characters on visits to the Jura wine region, will be touched by these losses, as is everyone in the region, or connected with the Jura wine world, to whom they gave so much of their time. Decanter contributor Wink Lorch has won the Andre Simon Best Drink Book of 2014 for her crowd-funded book Jura Wine. Rumour has it that Domaine Rolet in Arbois will also stay in family hands, this is yet to be 100% confirmed, but could be good news. The Rundown Best Overall: Domaine de la Tournelle Fleur de Savagnin at Vivino Jump to Review Best Easy to Find: Domaine Breton - Catherine & Pierre Breton Trinch! Pascal was from Montmalin, a vineyard village close to Arbois, but his family were not vignerons; wine became Pascals chosen career beginning as a wine technician. Red, white, yellow andsparkling! This results in a wine with more intense aromas in which both the power of the Savagnin and the finesse of the Chardonnay are expressed. This was his very last vintage before passing on these vines to Domaine du Plican, who had already taken on the rest of his vineyards. Wine Wine Regions Jura Jura Tucked between Burgundy and the Swiss border, this small area in eastern France is a missing piece of the puzzle for many wine lovers. This was some order later he regularly shipped 10,000 bottles per year. Many people in the region suggest that this is likely to be the worst spring frost since 1991 conservative estimates are of 45% damage, but it could be worse. If Burgundy is mainstream, Jura is offbeat, with grape varieties such as Savagnin and Trousseau, and wine styles such as vin jaune offering an original journey. He founded Domaine de la Tournelle in 1991, and was running it full-time from 1995, taking on the cellars in Arbois, to be joined a couple of years later by Evelyne. Savagnin is the white grape of the region and makes food-friendly wines with zingy acidity, sometimes made in an oxidative style called ouill that gives earthy notes of wet leaves and hazelnuts. Afficionados will be pleased to hear that apart from vegetarian Wednesdays, little is likely to change, and Rachel is a big fan of the local organic and natural wines. And, I enjoyed an hour-long Instagram video chat with US wine blogger Keith Edwards along the same theme. Produced from the Chardonnay and Savagnin grape varieties, Jura white wines (External link) are divided in two categories: floral, more subtle and refined, and "traditional," more powerful. Could this be a fashion, many asked? The Jura Wine Tasting Report. A small region east of Burgundy and west of Switzerland, the Jura is full of charm, lesser-known grape varieties and eccentric wines made by producers focused on organic farming and natural winemaking. Many of you may be aware that the prestigious London wine club 67 Pall Mall, with wine director Ronan Sayburn MS, has been conducting an incredible series of online masterclasses all of which have been recorded. Pedro told me he had some prints made, which he offered to friends in return for bottles of Jura to keep him topped up during lockdown a lovely swap. Etienne commented that the Le Nez dans le Vert group of vignerons is very dynamic and helps young organic vignerons get established. Nicknamed "the gold of the Jura," it is now one of the greatest white wines in the world. For two days, the town hosting this touring event dresses with the colors of wine and its ambassadors. Franois Duvivier in the Plican barrel cellar Mick Rock/Cephas. Stphane noted that it takes double the labour force to farm one hectare of organic vineyard compared to conventional and thus organic estates were providing work opportunities. Forgive me that this blog site is so out-of-date and hard to read on portable devices. in popularity. The latter seemed happy, not citing big quantities but for a change normal quantities. Soils Different types of marl (blue, grey, red, black) on limestone strata dating from the Jurassic era (150 million years ago), Main grapes White Chardonnay 43%, Savagnin 23% Red Poulsard 14%, Trousseau 11%, Pinot Noir 7%, others 2%, Appellations Arbois, ChteauChalon, LEtoile, Ctes du Jura, Crmant du Jura, Macvin du Jura, Marc du Jura, Wine styles Dry white, red, ros, sparkling, vin jaune, vin de paille. In the meantime, a new restaurant has just opened Brasserie Aux Docks is on the main square, a few paces from Hirsinger chocolate shop and the many wine shops of Arbois. I was proud to be asked to conduct a few. Just because the Jura vineyards stretch over "only" 80 km (50 miles), it doesn't mean they are less rich and varied. Pascal Clairet, who ran Domaine de la Tournelle with his wife Evelyne, ended his life aged just 58 on 5 th May. We let ourselves be surprised by the Poulsard variety, with a light ruby color that sometimes makes it look like ros, while Trousseau, more tannic and strongly colored, is distinguished by its aroma of red berries, spices and fresh ground pepper. Although his final vintage for most of his wines was 2014, he had kept back some of his best and oldest Trousseau vines and I was delighted to try with him the gorgeous 2017. Try it with tarragon butter chicken. The domains 2003 Mondeuse Prestige cuve went under the hammer this year for 442. 87 / 100. A year ago I was far away, working for Wine-Searcher in New Zealand, but keeping an eye on what was going on in the Jura wine region and on how its wines were continuing to make waves around the world. At the official opening, joint presidents Stphane Tissot and Jean-Etienne Pignier said that increasing numbers of Jura estates were converting to organics and that nearly 20% of the vineyard area is now organic or in conversion. The grapes used to make Crmant du Jura must therefore be harvested by hand and then transported in perforated crates to prevent their juice from oxidizing. Jura's Chardonnay wines deliver incredibly bright, citrus-kissed fruit aromas and flavors, profound mineral tension, and if made in the more unusual oxidative style, a touch nutty. He was another man from whom I learned so much. Wink Lorch raises a glass to this colourful weekend, {"api":{"host":"https:\/\/pinot.decanter.com","authorization":"Bearer ZGYwNmM0N2QxMmJiNTc0M2EwYzJiZTgzNDRlODU5NjAwNzc5MDQxNmEyMjA0NmIwNWFhNzZkNzA0Y2MwZGY2Zg","version":"2.0"},"piano":{"sandbox":"false","aid":"6qv8OniKQO","rid":"RJXC8OC","offerId":"OFPHMJWYB8UK","offerTemplateId":"OFPHMJWYB8UK","wcTemplateId":"OTOW5EUWVZ4B"}}, {"location":"Keystone Header","subscribeText":"Subscribe Now","version":"2","menuWidgetTitle":"","myAccountLnk":"\/wine-reviews\/account","premiumLnk":"\/subscribe","menuLnks":{"2":{"text":"My Wines","href":"\/wine-reviews\/my-wines"}},"colors":{"text":"#ffffff","button":"#decc8f","link":"#ffffff"}}, Best sweet wines from around the world: 30 bottles to seek out, Decanter contributor Wink Lorch wins Best Drink Book at Andre Simon Awards, Picturesque Jura: a travel guide for wine lovers, Jura wine 'pope' Jacques Puffeney sells off vineyards, March releases on the Place de Bordeaux 2023, September releases 2022: full score table. In my Jura Wine book, I am proud to have maps by the talented wine educator, blogger and map-maker Quentin Sadler. Best Greek wineBest German wineBest Hungarian wineBest South African wineBest English wineBest Sicilian wineBest Portuguese red wine, Try a magazine subscription 5 issues for only 5. Pascal was a proud man, sometimes troubled yes, and he was another vigneron who loved to share the joy of wine with others. Vintage 2018 was an amazingly good one for Domaine du Plican and the rest of the region. A chance to learn about the Jura wine region, not just from my book, but through interviews and webinars Ive done recently. That said, I must stress that they were the earliest true working partnership of man and woman in the Jura wine world that I came across. Of a similar age, Lucien knew Pierre Overnoy well and although many of their vineyard and winemaking methods were different, like Pierre he remained adamant that indigenous yeasts were essential to making good wine. Since then Ive visited with both Jacques and with Franois Duvivier of Plican to taste the 2014s and discuss the changes. When I started to visit the region regularly, Domaine de la Tournelle soon featured on my priority list for visits, and in those early days it was usually Pascal who hosted me, rather than Evelyne as she would be busy with the children. We believe in you, your individualistic wines and your fabulous region and thank you for your work and dedication. Comparing the wines of Jura, Jerez and Tokaji Decanter experts give their verdict, tasting notes and drinking windows on wines from Jura. Below for the sheer pleasure of it I am sharing the map scrolls that show the Jura wine route between Lyon and Besanon, including producers locations, taken from my book. Jura wines are definitely not just a fashion, they have now been around, doing well and growing in the US for almost ten years, Customers at Chambers Street Wines in NYC are still fascinated by Jura and indeed buying the Jura Wine book, but also interested in the next project . Chardonnay and pinot noir are grown here and make very good wines, including fine sparkling crmants du Jura. This is an estate to watch. Then, unlike in Burgundy, there was some welcome rainfall in August and the vignerons could breathe again. Great-value fizz that brims with peachy fruit, lemony freshness and lovely, creamy bubbles. La route des vins du Jura sur le chemin entre Besanon et Lyon by Pedro Kok. $ 75. Published: 26 August 2019, 17:50, Updated: 4 August 2021, 14:06, Une publication partage par Jura Tourisme (@juratourisme), Une publication partage par CIVJ (@vins_du_jura), Une publication partage par @montagnes_du_jura, Une publication partage par La Perce Du Vin Jaune (@perceeduvinjaune), Get on board for an underground journey in the Jura caves, The Jura Mountains: what to do, what to see. Vins de paille come next, a rare example of dessert wines finding themselves among the highest-priced cuves followed by reds and ouill whites. Eventually Neal persuaded Jacques to receive him for a quick tasting at the end of the day; in the meantime, apparently Neal made a quick trip to Alsace and back (about a 5-hour round trip with a tasting in the middle, presumably). Its pristine quality shines brightly providing essence of Savagnin, yet the other Savagnins from the domaine including the Vin Jaune are exemplary too. Made exclusively from the Savagnin grape, it is kept in oak barrels for at least six years and three months, without any intervention from the winegrower. Domaine de L aigle deux Ttes Ctes du Jura. Oak-aged savagnin is added to chardonnay for depth. On Pedros Instagram accounts in Portuguese and English he enjoys sharing illustrations of bad jokes about grape varieties. These more distinguished domains tend to be run organically or biodynamically, and theyve started to build a name for themselves among groups of keen enthusiasts. Does Technology Trump Terroir in the Vineyard? As widely reported, last December Jacques Puffeney let the cat out of the bag (early apparently according to his importer Neal Rosenthal) that he was selling most of his vineyards to Domaine du Plican, the Jura estate owned mainly by Guillaume, Marquis dAngerville. If you would like a signed (or unsigned) copy of the second impression of my award-winning book Jura Wine for yourself or as a gift, then order from Wine Travel Media and use the code NY1625 for 25% discount, valid up to 5th January. Two Savagnin ouills from Pascal and Evelyne Clairet shone the Fleur de Savagnin 2014 was really stony and their new release 2008 Rserve, topped up in barrel for three years and then aged in bottle, was intense and fabulous. Arbois remains a gourmet paradise with the Hirsinger chocolate shop in the centre. Two examples: new plantings are from massal selections from Domaines Pignier and La Pinte; and their manager Rmi Treuvey, is himself a Jurassien from a long line of vignerons. At the end of March I was due to attend Le Nez dans le Vert, Juras massive organic wine tasting show, to catch up, but that was cancelled. See all the Savoie wines currently available, - The 2023 iDealwine auction barometer is released!- Meet Lo, our Singapore account manager- iDealwine is once again crowned the No 1 wine auctioneer, Top Jura and Savoie wines | First-half review 2021. And, Ive been selling my book well in the local Jura bookshops. Were now getting to see the next-generation effects of their work, with inspired new producers finding their feet in the industry. Living partly in the French Alps, only a couple of hours from the Jura region, she has written about the region's wine, food and tourism for many international magazines and books. Please do join the Domaine du Plican masterclass next week. The natural movement is also taking a hold in the region, giving domains the chance to find success through a younger generation of eco-conscious and curious wine drinkers.